Day 19: Utelle to Aspremont
The last long day of the GR5! The hiking was much like the previous day’s second section: dry, rocky landscape with well-maintained paths. And it was horrendously hot. On leaving Utelle, we passed a small chapel (Chapelle St Antoine) where there is a button that starts the chant of the month. When we were there it was apparently “Silence is golden”, set to the music of 4’33”.
After a brief descent we crossed the Vésubie by the Pont du Cros, then hiked on to Levens. It was siesta time, so we hung around the village a bit and had lunch there before we could buy some supplies at the shop. Leaving Levens, there was a fair amount of pavement walking and a bit through some sort of park where we must’ve looked weird with big packs. The last section was a lot nicer and wilder. Cool rocks. Unfortunately we realised we were nearly out of water (despite refills in Levens and in total having more than four litres each). We rationed our last litre and decided not to climb Mont Cima but go around it.
Aspremont appeared ahead! Like Utelle, this is a hilltop village and not a dreary banlieu of Nice. Well done, GR5. Having drunk our last water, we staggered into Aspremont and were delighted to find our hotel had a swimming pool with a glorious view of the Mediterranean.